Gucci High Jewelry Returns to the Brand’s Roots

The Labirinti, along with the Horsebit and Marina motifs, all make an appearance.

High jewelry season continues, and the latest to showcase their collection is Gucci. Premiering during haute couture week in Paris, for the 2025 collection, the brand dives into their archives. Familiar themes like last year’s Labirinti collection, as well as the signature Horsebit motif and the Marina chain, get a colorful upgrade courtesy of a slew of precious gemstones. To complement, the label also included a series of seven new timepieces as well, marking the fifth time that they’ve dabbled in high watchmaking.

Kicking off the triptych of high jewelry motifs is an extension of last year’s Labrinti collection. With 20 new pieces that fall under this family, highlights include a 24.75 carat tanzanite and a 5.94 carat Paraiba tourmaline necklace that wraps delicately around the neck. Accented with diamonds, the gems sway with every move and are meant to resemble a fountain hidden in a maze. Another noteworthy creation is a 6.02 carat oval cut Brazilian aquamarine ring with two Paraiba diamonds at the center. The setting was created to evoke the lace-like petals of a rose. For those wanting a showstopper look to the necklace has a 62.86 carat Brazilian aquamarine at its heart. Below the center stone, a strand of diamonds interspersed with 30 carats of oval tanzanite stones offers a sense of delicacy and lightness.

Given that Gucci has an equestrian history, their horsebit design naturally deserves a moment of high jewelry glory. Spanning a selection of necklaces, rings, and bracelets, key pieces to note include a diamond-encrusted bangle with a 5.19 carat oval sapphire at its center. The vibrant stone perfectly matches the blue plated metal it’s set in. Another standout is a red and green collar. Draped in diamonds, it also boasts a 3.07 carat oval-cut ruby as well as Tsavorites. To pair with the necklace, naturally, there are matching stud Horsebit earrings made from two 1.62 carat rubies, tsavorites, and diamonds.

Re-introduced back in 2023, the Marina Chain dates back to the 1960s and is inspired by the maritime world. For 2025, the design gets the rainbow effect with a slew of gems ranging from rubies to sapphires to tsavorites to diamonds. For a slightly more subtle take, there’s a pendant necklace with a 3.40-carat Brazilian aquamarine, surrounded by pavé sapphires and diamonds. And finally, rose gold earrings made up of pink sapphires and featuring a 2.73 spinel centerpiece round out this grouping.

A jewelry collection would not be complete without new watches as well. Joining the G-Timeless collection are five new timepieces highlighting the Métiers d’Art skill. Each 40mm design has a Tourbillon movement and hand-engraved case backs. Highlights include a design inspired by the Flora print scarf, created by Vittorio Accornero. With a floral background set in white gold diamonds and featuring white grand feu enameling, you’ll also find hand-painted flowers and inlays utilizing violet jade, mother-of-pearl, and verdite. Another draws from another, an Accomero scarf, Velieri, a nautical-inspired creation that translates into horology courtesy of a mother-of-pearl dial and maritime motifs. And for those who love Accornero’s Safari print from 1969, they’ll be interested in the rose gold watch with a mother-of-pearl dial that includes a slew of wildlife in the background.

To complete the watch collection, there are two other styles: the Gucci25H, which is a 40mm skeleton tourbillon that was inspired by ancient Rome’s Colosseum, and the Gucci Interlocking. The latter was introduced in 2024 and features a new 41mm rose gold watch adorned with diamonds. With a 10.7mm cushion-shaped case that houses a flying tourbillon as well as a jumping hours complication, it’s a testament to the craftsmanship required to create all of the pieces in this Gucci high jewelry and watches collection.

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